Pushkar is one of the most sought after photography destination for any one who's even remotely interested in photography. So late October this year we, bunch of snapoholics from Delhi, decided to visit Pushkar camel fair 2017 and it turned out to be one of the best experiences of our life.

 

 

 

After you've been shooting for a while with your kit lens you realize that images made with kit lens lack quality of the professional images. At this point you start to look for better lenses and find that the market is full of various options. It becomes difficult to make a choice because all these lenses are quite expensive. This guide is written to help you out in making the best decision while choosing your new lens.

Understanding Lens Categorization

Most common categorization of lenses is based on fixed or variable focal length. Focal length is the distance between focal point of the 'combined lens elements' from the sensor plane of the camera. 

Prime Lenses - These lenses have fixed focal length such as 14mm, 20mm, 24mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 105mm, 135mm, etc. These lenses produce images that have better sharpness and contrast than zoom lenses. The drawback is that this improved quality comes at the cost of flexibility. To get the right composition one will have to move around quite a bit. Prime lenses are often faster & lighter than the zoom lenses. Prime lenses perform very well in low light situations due to their wide aperture. Prime lenses also help increase mobility as these are light weight and allow you to be out shooting for long periods without getting tired. 

Zoom Lenses - These lenses have  variable focal length such as 14-24mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm, etc. These lenses are loved by everyone because of more flexibility. Most of the time you can carry a 24-70mm and it will be enough. It's easy to carry one lens on your travel compared to multiple lenses. However, zooms come with weight penalty. Zoom lenses also tend to have softer (low sharpness) corners and vignette (lower brightness) around corners. 

Next categorization is based on the focal length which governs angle of view. Different genres require different focal lengths with some creative overlap.  

Wide angle - (14mm - 24mm)

This range is not very rigid and is mentioned only to give an idea. These lenses are used for landscapes, group shots, advertising, architecture, etc. A peculiar characteristic of wide angle lenses is perspective distortion, i.e. these tend to make the object closer to the lens appear bigger and things farther away smaller producing a very dramatic image. 

Normal View - (24mm - 70mm)

Human eye has an angle of view of about 50 degrees. Focal length in this range produces images that look normal to the viewer. This range is ideal for portrait photography & fashion photography. 

Telephoto - (70mm -200mm)

This range is used for various purposes. Telephoto lenses produce an effect called tele-compression. It means that it reduced the appearance of the distances between the subject and the background. This range is used for outdoor portraits, fashion, sports, etc.

Fish Eye - Focal lengths less than 14mm with distortion are called fish eye lenses and produce a lot of distortion. Focal lengths more than 200mm are used for wild life and sports photography. Ultra-wide lenses that do not cause distortion and try to maintain the vertical lines and the horizontal lines are called rectilinear. 

Macro lenses (or Micro) - These are lenses can focus very close to the subject and have a magnification factor (1:1 or more). These are used for images of bugs, insects or products.

Perspective control lenses - These lenses can alter the focal plane of lens elements with respect to sensor plane. This flexibility helps maintain the flat perspective while taking pictures of tall buildings and architectural photography. If such structures are photographed with normal wide angle lenses then buildings appear to be falling backward. 

Next categorization is based on maximum aperture of the lenses.

Fast Lenses - Lenses with wider apertures are known as fast lenses because these allow camera to use faster shutter speeds as they let more light to get in. Zooms are available with maximum aperture of f/2.8. Zoom lenses with constant aperture throughout the focal length range are heavy and expensive. Prime lenses are available with much wider apertures of f/1.4 or even f/1.2. prime lenses with very wide aperture are very expensive. However, primes with maximum aperture of f/1.8 are affordable and produce very good quality. Zooms with variable aperture have limited maximum aperture which reduces as one zooms towards the longer end of the focal length range. For example an 18-105mm lens f/3.5-f/5.6 has aperture opening up to f/3.5 at 18mm but as one zooms up to 105mm aperture opening is available only up to f/5.6. NOTE: Larger the aperture number smaller the lens opening will be. 

Quality of Lens 

Picture quality of a lens depends on resolution & acutance, chromatic aberration, distortion and vignetting.

  1. Resolution & Acutance: These are the two characteristics that result in sharpness of the image. Ability to produce two very closely spaced thick lines (black on white background for testing) is called resolution. Ability to maintain boundaries / edges of that line sharp is called acutance. Resolution of the lens must be more than that of the camera sensor to make a sharp image.
  2. Chromatic aberration: This is a defect caused due to characteristic of white light. Natural white light is made up of seven colours (VIBGYOR). Each of these colors has different wavelength and hence is focused at a slightly different point generally causing a purple fringe along the edges. Lens manufacturers use coatings and Low dispersion elements to minimize chromatic aberrations. Some camera bodies also remove CA. 
  3. Distortion: This refers to the ability of a lens to produce an image with vertical lines staying vertical and horizontal lines horizontal in the image. Manufacturers  use aspherical lens elements to reduce these distortions. Most of the times these distortions can be corrected in post-production.
  4. Vignetting: This is the characteristic of light fall off around the corners in an image. This is observed usually while shooting at the wide focal length and widest aperture of a lens. For most photographers it is not a great deal because no photographer places anything important around the corners. But it can be a problem if one is planning to stitch the images in a panorama. It can also be important for jewelry and fashion shoots where chances of using the edge are more.
  5. Vibration Reduction (VR) : This is a very important feature of modern lenses. This feature allows you to shoot handheld at lower shutter speeds such as 1/20 Sec. It's a must have feature in telephoto lenses but now a days manufacturers are including VR feature even on wide angle lenses which is a warmly welcomed by both professionals and amateurs alike. 

Few other important consideration before deciding on a lens:

  • Flare & Ghosting: When a bright light source is in the frame it causes flares and ghosting due to internal reflections between the glass elements. Modern lens manufacturers use coatings to minimize these defects. Sometimes photographers use flares to make interesting pictures.
  • Weight & dimension: This is a major criterion to decide on a lens. Buying a lens that weighs 1.3 Kgs may sound like a no big deal but carrying it throughout the day or trying to shoot handheld may be a big headache for most photographers. While traveling, flights have an in-cabin weight limitation and if your lenses are too heavy you might have to pay extra money for cabin luggage every time you travel through an airport
  • Build Quality: There are lenses built with metal body and others with plastic body. Plastic body lenses are usually cheaper and lighter but after years of use their elements may become shaky. Investing in lenses in a good idea because optics stays great for years and years.

 Alright you know all of the terms associated with lenses. Let's see how to select which lens you'd like to buy:

0. Decide Full Frame of Crop Sensor.  If you are planning to upgrade to full frame camera sometime in the future then definitely buy full frame lenses even though you may have a crop sensor camera right now. All Full Frame lenses are usually compatible with crop sensor cameras too (check camera mount compatibility). 

1. Decide your budget based on if you are going to make money with your photography or you are going to shoot for hobby. 

2. Decide the Focal length (or range) that you need. Pay attention to what kind of photography you mostly do. If you are mostly into landscape then look for a wide angle, if you like street then there are two types of street photographers one who like making photographs look personal, so they use wide angle lenses and take environmental portraits or group shots. If you like portrait & fashion photography then look for telephoto range of focal lengths. 

3. Decide on Zoom or Prime. It's good to have a prime lens of a focal length that you shoot at most often. Let's say you primarily shoot portraits then you would want to have a dedicated portrait prime lens (like 85mm f/1.4). Sometimes if you like shooting landscape then you may want to have a 14-24mm zoom (or something similar) as an additional focal range for landscapes. 

4. Decide on Aperture Wide aperture lenses are expensive, fast, heavy and create great Bokeh. If you need great bokeh chose a fast prime. If you need bokeh and versatility then chose a zoom with f/2.8 constant aperture. For usual landscape shots one doesn't need fast lenses as these are usually done on tripod. 

5. 3rd Party lenses There are many companies that manufacture lenses and are expert in this field. Zeiss, Sigma, Tokina & Tamron are well known lens manufacturers in addition to Nikon & canon which one should consider before finalizing a lens. To compare sharpness and contrast you may use websites such as www.dxomark.com to compare lenses & cameras. Don't forget to compare MTF (Modulus Transfer Function) charts before finalizing your lens.

Recommended Prime Lenses (Full Frame):

Wide Angle - Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24mm f/1.8G ED

Normal Wide - Tamron SP 35mm F1.8 Di VC USD

Normal Telephoto - Tamron SP 85mm f/1.8 Di VC USD

Recommended Zoom Lenses (Full Frame)

Wide Range - Tamron SP 15-30mm F/2.8 Di VC USD

Normal Range - Tokina AT-X 24-70 F2.8 PRO FX 

Telephoto Range - Tamron SP 70-200mm F/2.8 Di VC

Now you may chose the lens that fits your budget. You may look at images by any lens or camera on Pixel-Peeper website before buying a lens. I would like to end this article with an advice that lenses and cameras don't make a great picture, the photographer behind the camera does. All the best!

 

My friends often ask me for help to decide which camera they should buy. So I decided to write this blog on how to select a camera and the things to look for in a camera body. We will focus on DSLR cameras but some of the concepts are universal and shall be applicable on any camera system. 

1. Decide on your budget

Many times we tend to overlook this factor and only come to realize that it is expensive when it comes to paying to bill. A major consideration is to be sure if you want to buy your camera with some professional aspiration which means you plan to make money with your camera or, you are buying to take pictures of friends and family, probably do some travel photography. Most camera companies have segmented their products into three categories; professional, semi-professional or serious hobbyist, entry level. As the technology & competition is growing fast, the distinction between these segments is fading away. Professional camera body costs about INR 2 lacs and above ($2000+), semi-pro camera body will cost about INR 80 thousand and above and entry level body will cost below INR 80 thousand range. So first thing would be to write down the amount that you are willing to shell out. 

Nikon D3400 Nikon D5 Canon 1300D Canon 1Dx 
Rs. 26,000/- Rs. 4,30,000/- Rs. 22,000/- 4,45,000/-

2. Set your priorities right

When someone asks me for advice on buying a camera, I ask them what kind of photography do you want to do with it and they, more than 50% of the time, reply "everything"! You must look back at saying "jack of all trades but master of none" and that's exactly what happens with our expectation for a DSLR camera to do everything. If a camera claims to do everything then there are some compromises somewhere in the system. If you are interested in venturing into bird photography and think that buying expensive gear will put you on top of the game then you are clearly not thinking through. The most important thing for venturing into bird photography would be to buy a guide on birds, read about their habitat, learn about their names and habits. If you are interested in street photography and are considering expensive equipment that draws lot of attention then it is not advisable. So write down the kind of photography that you actually foresee yourself doing in immediate 6 months from the time of buying your camera and proceed with that. 

3. Sensor Size Matters not the Mega pixels

When you look at an image that is clicked with a DSLR and compare it with a mobile phone camera or a point and-shoot-camera then there is a clear difference in the quality of the image which is clicked with a DSLR camera. This difference arises basically due to bigger size sensors of DSLR cameras. So even if a mobile camera boasts of 20 MP camera, it will not produce images comparable to an image taken with a 16MP DSLR. Mega pixels only define size of the recorded image that can be printed. Bigger the sensor size better will be the quality of images. Bigger sensors are also difficult to manufacture which makes bigger sensors more expensive.

A professional camera has a 36mm x 24 mm sensor, this size is referred to as 'Full Frame' because the size of the sensor is equal to the photographic film which was used earlier, more in the pre-digital era.  Nikon's Full frame cameras come with a branding FX. Medium format cameras are very expensive and have sensors bigger than full frame. At lower end sit prosumer and entry level DSLRs with a smaller sensor than full frame. So now, make a list of cameras with relatively larger sensor size and which suits your budget. 

4. Weight & Size

This parameter is often overlooked but it is very important as it affects your mobility. A Nikon Full Frame with a 70-200mm f2.8 will weigh about 2.3 kilos (5lb)! Imagine you are out with your family on a trip and this 5lb machine is hanging on your neck for more than 4-6 hours. Also, when you walk around with such bulky gear then you draw a lot of attention. Weight is also affected by % of metal & plastic in the body. If you wish to buy camera body for mostly studio use then you can buy heavier equipment without worrying about it too much. 

 Nikon D3400 645g or 22.8 Oz Nikonn D5 1400 g or 49.91 Oz Sony As7 II 627g or 22.11 Oz

5.  Dynamic Range

Dynamic Range means the range of tones from blackest black to whitest white that your camera can capture in a given lighting condition at optimum settings. Camera with higher dynamic range will produce more lifelike images. There is also a technique called HDR (High Dynamic range) where camera takes three (or more) at under exposure (to get highlight details), normal exposure (to get mid-tones) and overexposure (to get shadows) and then merge these three into one image with the help of software. So you need to be looking for higher DR value.

Canon 5D Mark-IV Nikon D5 Nikon D810 Canon 1Dx 
DR - 13.6 EV DR 12.3 EV DR 14.8EV DR 11.8 EV

6. High ISO Performance

This is another important factor to be taken into consideration. It's not just how high a camera's ISO can go but up to what ISO camera  can maintain an acceptable image.  Higher ISO enables us to shoot in poor lighting situation. So look for a camera that can retain the quality at higher ISO.

ISO 1192 (print worthy quality) ISO 2434 (print worthy quality)

7. Fast Auto Focusing System

A crucial factor which will affect your results from your camera. DSLR cameras boast of number of AF points. More number of AF points is better. The thing that you need to pay attention to is the number of Cross Type points which are mostly not advertised but makes a huge difference in speed of auto focusing. So let's say there are 21 AF points then there may be only 1 or 8 Cross Type AF points. More the number of cross type points better would be the speed of auto focusing.  There are certain AF points which are designated as f/8 points, these points are the ones which are active while using a 2.0 Tele-Converter. So make sure there are enough f/8 AF points if you plan to use tele-converters. So look for more number of cross type AF points.

Auto Focusing speed also varies from lens to lens.

Other factors which may affect your shooting experience or image quality are Metering system, number of shots per charge of battery, sales after service, etc. Also, try buying from an authorized showroom only. Hope you find this blog helpful. Don't forget to leave your comments below.

Bird Photography is one of the most challenging photography, it’s not easy to click photographs of wild birds. Wild birds are usually shy and they often don’t pose for the camera, therefore, it’s very difficult to get close enough to take the best shot. But if you know basics of bird photography and understand the avian behavior and habitat then it becomes much easier to capture beautiful moments of the birds. Bird photography is a fascinating hobby.

Equipment & Camera Setting You can start Bird photography with basic DSLR. As you know that birds are very shy, you need minimum 200 mm lens. It’s very important to know what settings to choose, In Bird photography you can use these three modes:-

  1. Aperture priority: - If you want to control depth of field then use Aperture Priority mode.
  2. Shutter priority: - If you want to control shutter speed then use Shutter priority mode.
  3. Manual Mode: - If you know what settings you need choose then use Manual mode. 

(Photograph by Nishant Chauhan)

In the above Picture I wanted to freeze the bird completely, so I set my shutter speed to 1/1000, ISO-200,  F/5.6 clicked in Manual mode.

 

(Photograph by Nishant Chauhan)

In the above picture the bird is still so I use these settings shutter speed set to 1/640, ISO-100,  F/5.6 clicked in Manual mode.

 

Special Tips for Birds Photography:

• For birds in flight click at high shutter speeds of 1/800 and above to freeze the bird.

• In slower shutter speeds of 1/250-1/600 and lower ISO for better image quality use tripod or a mono-pod is highly recommended.

• Try to click at bird's eye level.

• Always click in RAW format.

• Always try to focus on eyes of the bird.

• Background is more important to get beautiful bokeh.

• It’s a game of patience, so wait for action.

• Please don’t harm birds while taking photograph. I humbly request you to not take photographs of birds’ nests.

 

Good luck and Happy Clicking!

 

Shimla view from Mall Road

 

 

So it all started when one of my friend asked me if I would like to go to Shimla with her and my immediate response was ‘YES’. I consider myself a self-proclaimed best budget trip planner without compromising on the experience. I know that might seem a bit narcissistic but just get over it! LoL.

Snapoholic by Snapoholic.com